Excursions
For a Half Day
The James Joyce Museum: The Martello Tower, 14km (nine miles) south of Dublin, which was originally built to guard against invasion from Napoleon, is nevertheless an appropriate venue for the James Joyce Museum (tel: (01) 280 9265). It was here that Oliver St John Gogarty invited Joyce to stay and the Tower overlooking the ‘snotgreen sea’ became the setting for the opening chapter of Ulysses, while Gogarty was transformed into the fictional character, Buck Mulligan. The Tower houses a collection that includes the artist’s letters, photographs, guitar, walking stick and a copy of Ulysses illustrated by Matisse. The opening hours are Monday to Saturday 1000–1300 and 1400–1700, and Sunday 1400–1800 April–October and admission costs €5.50 (concessions available). The Tower is easily accessed by DART to Sandycove (a scenic trip) or bus 8 from Burgh Quay.
For a Whole Day
Glendalough: This early Celtic monastery (tel: (0404) 45325; website: www.heritageireland.ie), once an important seat of Christian learning, lies 30km (19 miles) south of Dublin, between Laragh and Hollywood. Its Gaelic name means ‘valley of the two lakes’ and there are some breathtaking walks around the monastery and on the lakeshore. St Kevin founded the monastery in the sixth century and his body lies in the ninth-century cathedral; the site is adorned with St Kevin’s Cross, carved in about 1150. Nearby are the remains of St Kevin’s Kitchen – a thousand-year-old church. The opening hours are daily 0930–1700 (Oct–Mar) and 0930–1800 (Apr–Sep) and admission costs €2.75 (concessions available). The site is best reached by car. Alternatively, the St Kevin’s Bus Service departs from St Stephen’s Green daily at 1130, with a return service late afternoon. Its route along the Wicklow Way, through the valleys of the Wicklow Mountains, makes for an idyllic journey.
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